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THE CANYON walls in the mountains
behind Santa Barbara are steep and narrow, and where the sandstone
cuts across the creekbeds, there are refreshing pools that are
clear and crisp in springtime. Thick clusters of alter filter the
sunlight, providing a soft cathedral-like setting that is beautiful.
The sandstone is Eocene rock which has weathered slowly, the upthrust
crags forming a series of triangular-shaped flatirons that rise dramatically
from the shoulder of the city and create the juxtaposition of sea
and summit that gives Santa Barbara its unique character.
Life in chaparral country begins in these canyons, thin creases of
abundance where wealth is measured not in hard currency but in liquid;
water is the life force which allows these plants an easier life.
Literally they have their feet in the water: the leaves are larger
and greener than in the chaparral, and they are able to transpire
more freely than those which live but a hundred feet above them.
There are thin wisps of trails which lead up through and out of these
canyons to the crest of the mountain wall. For the Chumash these
trails provided important trade routes leading to interior tribes;
today they offer needed relaxation for those who need to escape the
city for a moment or two.
These trails meander through scattered groves of oak in places; at
others switching steeply around headwalls of bedrock into the heat
and openness of the chaparral hillsides, and back again into the
coolness of the creekside. Here life seems to decelerate from the
twentieth-century pace that has been forced on us.
But despite its beauty and the recreation that is provided, the vegetation
here, too, must burn. From San Marcos Pass east to Casitas Pass there
has not been a fire since before World War II.
AFTER THE Refugio Fire Mission Canyon residents
wonder. How would a fire be handled if it were to break out in their
canyon today? The brush that fills the mountains behind them is no
less thick than that in the Refugio area.
"
Assuming it is spotted by the La Cumbre lookout," they are told, " the
lookout tower would report its location to the ranger headquarters
at Los Prietos by phone, and crews from the San Marcos, Mountain
Drive and Rincon guard stations would roll immediately with pumpers
on radio orders from Los Prietos.
" Monitoring the radio, Santa Barbara headquarters
would alert at once the available air tankers at the airport, and
within minutes they
would be dumping loads of borate on the area. The Hot Shot or reserve
crews would roll in from Los Prietos.
" The County Fire would also be notified early,
since any part of the canyon not in the forest is in the county's
primary jurisdiction.
"
Because the forest perimeter area near the coast is within a "red
zone" which stands as a threat to the forest and its vital watershed,
the Forest Service has an agreement with the coastal units that if
anything happens there, it will rush men in regardless of boundary
lines.
If the canyon fire turned out to be more than the county and Forest
Service could handle, city, Montecito and Carpinteria units would
be called on for aid, and the Forest Service would radio neighboring
Santa Maria and Ojai districts to send men and equipment.
If the fire turned back upon the city and
raged through the foothills beyond control of city forces," it is added, "a
special long distance phone which has the highest priority of
any phone in the city would
be picked up, causing a red light to flash at the local exchange
switchboards. Operators would put the city chief in immediate contact
with the Ventura headquarters of the Disaster Control Center which
would begin summoning aid from the south under a 'fan out' system
which would eventually reach Los Angeles units if the situation
worsened."
Mission Canyon residents are unsure what to think: hoping for
the best; they still think and prepare for the worst.
Cooperative plans such as this result from the disastrous 1960
California fire season. Fire officials from throughout the state
meet after the fire season has ended. All agree that there needs
to be better advance arrangements for manpower so that it can be
put on the line as rapidly and efficiently as possible, and for
more thorough and intensive training of fire personnel.
The need for more money is also recognized. Detection, prevention,
initial attack forces, equipment--both ground and air--tools, and
fuel treatment all compete for what are woefully inadequate fire
control dollars.
Among priorities which emerge from the meetings as most important
are: increased manpower; better organization; more modern equipment;
and land treatment measures. All of them agree that burned acreage
is not being held within tolerable levels. The foresters and state
officials recommend four strategies that become the core of the 1960
State Fire Plan.
First, initial attack forces would be strengthened by doubling the
size of fire and pumper crews, increased use of aerial attack, including
fixed-wing air tankers, helicopters, and helitack crews, and development
of hot shot crews which are well trained, fully equipped, and highly
mobile.
Second, better access would be provided into previously inaccessible
areas, reducing critical attack time.
Third, hazard reduction would be implemented immediately. This would
include fireproofing areas of high risk, construction of fuel and
firebreaks, and conversion of brush into less flammable types.
Last, the fire prevention program would be increased and intensified.
When the Coyote Fire breaks out on September 22, 1964, due to
the lack of funding, the plan is far from being in place. Manpower
is only half of that recommended.
WITHIN SEVERAL weeks after containment of the Refugio
Fire, a prominent conservationist and rancher approaches the Forest
Service, wondering if they could be influenced to remove the brush
from a good deal of the front country which hadn't burnt in this
fire.
While he is supportive of the idea of new and more advanced equipment,
more money, and better coordination to fight fires, it is his thought
that reducing fuel levels might do more to alleviate the destructive
threat of fire than any amount of attack forces might.
Balancing fire prevention against its suppression is always a difficult
proposition when the dollars provided are insufficient.
The dilemma is expressed best by Nolan O'Neal,
who has been in charge of this most recent fire. "We can't live with
these big, unbroken, highly inflammable brush fields where fires
in extreme burning weather
are extremely dangerous and difficult to control.
" Neither can we live with barren watersheds
and the resultant floods, erosion, and siltation of reservoirs."
On September 20, 1955 the Federated Sportsmen of Santa Barbara back
a program of strip-burning of the brushlands aimed at establishing
a vast system of natural firebreaks.
Soon thereafter, on September 29 a meeting
sponsored by the County Farm Bureau is held at the Biltmore to discuss
the fire situation.
Los Padres Forest Supervisor Robert Jones speaks first. Never in
his almost 30 years of fighting fires has he ever seen one "so difficult,
so complex and so unpredictable."
"
Now that the fire is out," he says, " the most pressing question
is how to prevent such disasters from repeating." He offers a "plan."
O'Neal presents it. "The big brush fields must be broken into more
manageable units," he tells the 75 concerned citizens who have attended. "Barrier
strips must be built around homes, ranches, and other developed areas. "
"
The Forest Service is prepared," he adds, " to use any reasonable
tool to do the job, whether it be bulldozers or brush discs, chemical
sprays or even fire.
"
You can't handle this problem by hiring school boys in June who leave
in September," he emphasizes. "Much more research is needed into
wind and fire behavior, fire retardants and studies of what kinds
of grass or other cover might succeed the brush.
"
The program is not easy, it is not cheap and it's not simple," O'Neal
concludes.
In 1955 the amount of money the Los Padres Forest Service receives
from Congress to protect the valuable watersheds inside its boundaries
amounts to 11 cents per acre. Clearly this is not enough.
Those from the Mission Canyon, Montecito, and Carpinteria area want
to know what can be done immediately to reduce the fire hazard. They
know the next front country fire, should one come, will be in their
areas.
Others want to know what the Forest Service is prepared to do west
of San Marcos Pass--in the area covered by the fire--to prevent the
regrowth of the brush.
In spite of the earlier admission that the use of fire might be a
good idea under the right circumstances, in a rather lengthy discussion
of controlled burning, the Forest Service argues against its use.
Many people are upset by this point of view, and argue strongly that
the policy must change.
"
Controlled brush burning is as different from wild fire as a blaze
in a fireplace is different from a house on fire," one person says.
'Worthless brush covering much of California's
foothills encourages the spread of wildfires, hampers economical
fire control, endangers
valuable forest areas and is a constant threat to other adjacent
property," responds another.
"
We must recognize that, regardless of what is done, those brush lands
are going to burn sometime," retorts still a third. "So, if we burn
this out progressively and reduce the volume of fuel from the brush,
we will have less disastrous fires, more grass, more water from our
watersheds and less erosion in the long run."
The Forest Service is not swayed by arguments promoting the use of
fire in the chaparral. Rather, it supports the creation of an extensive
set of fuelbreaks and use of what is known as type conversion, which
involves breaking the brush up with the use of bulldozers, discs,
chains and herbicides and reseeding these areas with grasses.
County farm officials later visit San Luis Obispo, where a controlled
burning program has been officially organized. A controlled burn,
they are told, consists of bulldozing a line around the area to be
burned, providing water supplies, manpower, and dozers on the perimeter,
then setting fire to the area inside it.
The Sisquoc Grange Range Improvement Association is formed to implement
this policy. The Grange burns and reseeds 6,000 acres of private
land in the Santa Maria area.
Locally the Santa Barbara Range Improvement Association is created
and, in cooperation with Santa Barbara County Fire, begins to burn
its members' rangeland in 1956.
Ranchers, their worries increased by the Refugio Fire, are making
every effort to protect their property, and are openly critical of
what they see as the Forest Service's refusal to support fire prevention
efforts fully.
But this type of criticism is unfair. Ranchlands are relatively open,
mostly grassland, and their rolling hills are mostly accessible by
vehicle. The grasslands burn cool, the fuel insufficient to cause
the firestorms experienced in the higher country. The chaparral,
by contrast, is choked with dead brush, and much of it is in such
rugged topography as to render firelines impractical. Further, there
are huge, unbroken blocks of brush--thousands of acres of it--that
cannot hope to be burned until it is broken up into much smaller
chunks.
The County does not escape citizen criticism either.
On November 18, 1955 the Santa Barbara News-Press
publishes an editorial entitled, "No Lessons Learned from Refugio
Fire?"
" With the first abundant, welcome rains another
fire season has come to an end. It was preceded by its demise, we
fear, by the apparent
death of any sincere effort toward a modern, county-wide fire prevention
and hazard abatement program That all but died aborning...
" Many citizens expected that full advantage
would have been taken of the new public appreciation...Most fire-conscious
individuals
had long been aware that almost all our serious brush fires have
started from careless disregard and/or illegally maintained fire
hazards on private property at the edge of or within the boundaries
of Los Padres National Forest....The county's Fire Advisory Committee
had one of its rare meetings during the week without commenting on
any of the improvements which have been so obvious to so many people.
More and more, it begins to appear that the committee was chosen
by the Board of Supervisors with the principal view of maintaining
the status quo...."
As memories of the Refugio Fire recede many wonder if its lessons
have indeed been learned. Gradually, as grasses and herbaceous plants
begin to cover the mountainsides and crown sprouts from the burned
over chaparral begin to make their appearance, the fire's horrifying
visual evidence dissolve. Gradually the list of woulds dissipates
as well.
Wide fuelbreaks and access breaks would be built. More money would
be available. Stricter building codes would be developed. Roofs would
be fireproof; electrical wirings more safe. Homes would not be built
near the brush unless connected to water mains large enough to be
effective in fighting fires, and brush would be cleared from wide
areas around each house and from along roadways.
Committees have been formed, speeches made, editorials written in
the aftermath of the fire. Action has been promised, all this is
in September, and October, and early November of 1955.
By the early 1960s much that is on the list has still not been completed.
ADVANCES ON the technological front promise to help
make suppression efforts easier.
An aerial tanker is first used on the Mendocino National Forest in
1955. Souped up crop dusters which carry a 120 gallon mixture of
water and borate, they prove very effective.
Sodium calcium borate, as it is technically called is mined in Death
Valley, blended, and when mixed with water is whitish in color and
the consistency of pancake batter, producing a compound that remains
in suspension for long periods of time without stirring. It has a
high melting point, about 1,800 degrees and when it dries on the
brush it sticks, coating everything in its path with a substance
that cools and slows the fire down so that fire crews can get in
and fight it.
Ground crews are the first to appreciate the
new technique because they know they can call for a borate bath if
flames threaten to trap
them. "We believe it will become standard practice," Angeles National
Forest Supervisor William Mendenhall says after they are used for
the first time in Southern California on a fire in his forest in
1957. "It definitely cools down a fire to the point when land crews
can move in with shovels and bury it."
The planes are ex-Navy patrol bombers known as TBMs and PBYs. The
Municipal Airport now becomes the initial attack base.
Not everyone believes in the use of these planes, however. Using
them is expensive, costing nearly $1,000 an hour, and they are considered
risky. Pilots regularly fly through flames and dense smoke in tricky
canyons to deliver their 1,200 gallon payloads at very low altitudes.
In 1958 alone, seven air tankers crash.
The Forest Service is happy to have them, however, understanding
that the expense and danger pale into insignificance in comparison
to the damage and havoc a major fire can cause.
Aerial tankers are first used in Santa Barbara on an arson-caused
fire near San Marcos Pass in 1957. They prove their worth in July,
1960 near 7,000' Cobblestone Mountain in almost completely inaccessible
country, where a lightning strike initiates an 11,000 acre blaze.
During the seven days of action, pilots drop 157,400 gallons of borate
on the fire and the planes are vital to getting it under control.
On July 23, a sleeper fire caused by another lightning strike in
Cherry Canyon behind Wheeler Gorge erupts, threatening to expand
the fire line dramatically . The tankers are diverted, bombing it
out of existence before it can become a threat.
The helicopter joins the bombers in the air, replacing the pack horse
as a means of resupplying fire lines in remote country. The first,
an Autogyro, is actually a fixed wing plane fitted with rotating
blades, and is used in the Los Padres National Forest in 1922 for
reconnaissance, but it is not until the late 1950s that helicopters
are fully adapted to use in fires.
In 1957 seven Bell 47-B helicopters are introduced on the Gale Fire
in Angeles National Forest, moving over 3,000 firefighters during
a 10-day period. In 1959 a technique is developed that allows helicopters
to lay hose on the fire line and in 1961 fixed-mounted tanks are
installed on them making it possible to drop water and retardant
on a fire.
"
The helicopter can get into fires faster and with more equipment," Don
Landelis, a civilian pilot who contracts with the Los Padres Forest
Service explains. "It can lay fire hose, fly in men and help put
out small fires."
Heliports are established at the Los Prietos and San Marcos Ranger
Stations where firefighters are on duty day and night and must be
ready to be in the air within five minutes after receiving a fire
call. This is known as heliattack. The initial attack now comes from
the air, from helicopters which ferry troops and supplies.
The Forest Service also develops what is known as the helitanker,
an airborne fire truck, in essence, which combines the advantages
of the tank, pump, and hose of a ground fire tanker with the speed
and mobility of the helicopter.
During the Coyote Fire, 19 of them will be used, along with 14 helitack
crews from the Forest Service, Park Service, and Department of the
Interior. During the 12-day fire the helicopters log 1,172 flight
hours, move 8,900 men, 250,000 pounds of freight, and drop 28,000
gallons of water and fire retardant.
Addition of these technological advances changes the nature of fire
tactics; planning is now oriented towards the military principle
of coordinated, simultaneous, air and ground attack.
The Los Prietos Hot Shots become the strike force which is designed
to lead the attack on the ground. Formed in 1949 as part of a U.S.
flood project, it is their job to protect the Santa Ynez Valley watershed.
Today they have become one of the most well-honed and professional
fire fighting forces anywhere, recognized throughout Southern California.
During fire season they sleep in two barracks housed behind the Santa
Barbara Ranger District headquarters. Arising at 5:30 they run first,
keeping in top physical shape, with daily classes and drills in use
of tools and fire fighting techniques.
When a fire is reported in they scramble quickly and within a few
minutes time the 24-member crew is loaded in the back of the fire
truck and are on their way to the fire.
Their job is to create firebreaks in the thick chaparral using only
tools and an extraordinary amount of muscle power. Once on the fire
the Hot Shots break into three groups, two teams of eight men each
and one of seven whose job is to remove branches and other flammable
material from the path cut by the other two. In the lead are the
sawyers as they are called--those who man the chainsaws, quickly
and expertly cutting away the chaparral. It is an extremely demanding
job--but on the fire line there is no job any of the Hot Shots are
more proud.
THE COYOTE fire starts within a few inches of
the Santa Barbara city boundary, one-tenth mile below Mountain
Drive just before 2 pm on Tuesday, September 22. It is caused by
a car's faulty exhaust system.
A local resident, who sees flames in the grass at the road's edge,
phones the Santa Barbara City Fire Department at 2:02 pm, minutes
later. The report is instantly put out on the radio, which is monitored
by the Montecito County Fire Department and the Forest Service.
The response is immediate. Within 5 minutes two aerial bombers on
their way. City fire sends one engine; Montecito County Fire two.
One-half acre of the dry grass has been consumed by the time they
get there.
Seven minutes after the report is received the combined forces of
the Forest Service, and City and County fire have put 14 men on the
fire, illustrating how well coordinated these local agencies have
become
By 2:10 pm tankers, patrolmen, Hot Shot crews, and helicopters are
also on their way. In case the fire is not controlled quickly, the
forest dispatcher has ordered an additional 5 air tankers and called
for support from all four ranger districts in the southern portion
of the Los Padres National Forest.
The initial attack plan is to confine the fire to the east side of
Coyote Road. This fails when the flames burn up through the crown
of a large oak and gusting winds fling hot coals to the other side
of the road and across Mountain Drive to the north. Quickly the forces
divide: the Forest Service taking the portion above Mountain Drive;
City and County fire that below.
Above Mountain Drive the fire heads towards several houses, and rather
than starting perimeter control, the Forest Service personnel divert
their efforts towards protecting them. Pumper rigs and other support
equipment find it difficult to get to the fire scene; it has been
clogged by sightseers and local residents who rush to the area to
protect their own homes.
The fire spreads rapidly up hill and out of reach of those pumpers
which are in place. The Montecito Fuelbreak is above the flames,
and is designed for exactly such a situation, but spot fires thrown
out by the fire shoot over it and this line is lost. Later, the Forest
Service estimates that the Coyote Fire would have been controlled
at about 15 acres had these spot fires not occurred.
At the same time this line is being lost the aerial attack begins
but the bombers are hampered by power lines which make it impossible
for them to get in as close to the fire as they would like to have.
As the fire spreads beyond the transmission lines the aerial bombing
becomes more effective and though it has reached 200 acres in size
by 6 pm, the spot fires are being handled very effectively from the
air.
Because the initial attack has failed to hold the fire at Mountain
Drive, forces are regrouped for a sustained push to secure a perimeter
line further up the mountain wall. Four tractors arrive and are assigned
the job of coming in over the top of the fire to a power line right-of-way.
At 5 pm all agencies meet to establish zones of responsibility. The
Forest Service is given the area above Mountain Drive; City, County
and Montecito Fire Departments the job of handling all structures
and fire lines below Mountain Drive.
The aerial bombing is going very well and the possibility of controlling
the fire at about 300 acres looks very good.
But the fire is as erratic as the winds. Just as the fire is quelled,
it breaks out again, is quelled, rebreaks out, is quelled, only to
rebreak out once again.
The key to keeping it quelled are the B-17s, AJ-77s, F-7-fs, and
TBMs which drop 52,600 gallons of fire-retardant liquid from the
sky in 58 fly-overs between 2:30 pm and darkness.
When darkness comes the bombers are grounded and control of the fire
is lost.
Bill Richardson is a writer who lives with his wife, Frankie, and
two small children on Mountain Drive. Their story is among the many
that is reported by the News-Press.
It is an ordinary day as the family heads to the beach. That is until
they see the smoke billowing over Mountain Drive.
Rushing home, they are stopped a short distance from it by police
at Coyote Road and Mountain Drive. They pile out of the car and run
up the hill, straining to see through the smoke.
" At a bend in the road they stop and see the
flames rushing toward the adobe. The kids clutch at Frankie's legs,
and Frankie cries.
"
I guess it's gone," he says. "Everything's gone."
Bill is referring to the house. It is a roughly-constructed adobe
which Bill has built himself on a rocky crag overlooking the coast.
There are also the animals. One is a burro which is tethered near
the house under a valley oak with the Mexican saddle the neighborhood
kids so loved to ride. The others are dogs, four of them: Blue (a
white Australian shepherd with a marble eye); Chica; Tejon; and a
big black one, dubbed Hondo, which is scarred from a hundred encounters
with the wild pigs Richardson hunts with such great skill.
There are many manuscripts too, including one about jungle warfare
in the Pacific which he has almost finished. It is painful to think
that all he has created is about to go up in smoke.
As the family watches, the fire races up the hill goaded by the mean
sea breeze. Frankie cannot bear to look.
"
Then the bomber came, that sweet bomber," they remember later.
It appears before them, almost magically, slicing through the pall
of smoke and into the clear blue sky, the rusty chemicals flooding
from its bulky belly.
"
Just at that moment, the very moment, that sheets of flame leapt
towards the house on the cliff. They were 60 feet high, and when
a fire gets going that way, it takes everything in its path," Bill
says later, describing what he saw.
" It was a superb piece of flying. The rusty
cloud settled, right on target. The flames withered, subsided. The
smoke cleared, and there
was the house."
Nearby, firefighters whistle in admiration at the skill and daring
of the pilot. Even Frankie dared to look now
."Thank god. They bombed us--dead on," says
Frankie.
"
That's fifteen years of writing," said Bill, quietly.
"
It is hard to express the glowing thrill, the tightness in the throat
and the quick blinking to make sure what you saw was there," a reporter
notes, "but at the height of the Coyote Fire yesterday afternoon,
there was a great B-17 flying into the smoke and flame.
" It was almost something from another world;
it certainly was from another era; it really was a 'Flying Fortress.'
But this time it
was on a mission of aid, not of destruction."
The B-17 which bombs the Richardson house is named Old Girl.
The assault from the air is glamorous enough in moments like these,
but mostly, it is hard work, and daring enough to test the best of
men. For the six hours that 50-year-old Howard Haradon has maneuvered
Old Girl through the smoky canyons above Mountain Drive, he has earned
$1,320--a fat day's paycheck for most of us, but in the mountainous
war zone it is well earned. The bombing runs are tense, eight of
them down into the tight canyons, barely 75 feet above the very hard
ground, one of them fortunate enough have saved the Richardson homestead.
Just as capriciously as they have begun, the winds have died down
and the leaping flame subsides, turning into orange-colored embers.
The whole mountainside looks like a giant glowing coal. Tensions
ease. The heat and the roar of flame give way to choking smoke. The
people drift back to their homes
Mountain Drive is littered with hose, and thronged with fire company
pumpers which are laced with columns of helmeted firefighters moving
into the battle. In the midst of this, Bill, Frankie, and the children
walk up the smoke-filled road, their prayers seemingly answered.
They are stopped a few hundred yards below their place. Bill has
rushed from the beach so quickly that he still hasn't had the time
to put his shoes on. But he can see a corner of his house through
the smoke and this causes him to hurry on despite the ground, which
is hot underfoot.
It is still there.
It certainly is still there. Coco, munching cooly on a pile of hay,
seems undisturbed by it all. Nestled around him under the oak are
the dogs, which swarm over Bill as he looks up at the house, which
is splattered with rusty chemicals. The Richardson house and gardens
have become a tiny splattered island of green and gooey chemicals.
But it is there, and that is all that matters.
Almost a caress, Bill runs his hand over the
mess of dried chemical on his windows. "I think I'll just leave that
there,' he says. 'I'm not ever going to wipe that off.'"
As the big flames move on other adobe-dwellers straggled up the steep
roads. One girl with long hair, a serape and a guitar waves to a
group who have gathered on a deck to toast their deliverance. Their
glasses glint in the dusk.
At another house which has barely escaped destruction, the scorched
tatters of a flag still bravely flies.
Then comes the terrible night.
The winds begin again at 8:30 pm. They are vicious winds, the hot
winds blasting up to 45 miles an hour, fanning the flames, shooting
them hundreds of feet into the air, carrying them back downhill,
threatening the city, and pushing them westward. There is no reason
to hope it will stop short of the foothill homes and Mount Calvary
Monastery. Or even densely populated Mission Canyon.
"
The fire strikes terror in the heart," Litti Paulding reports, watching
from the brink of a canyon across from the fire. "It is hard to read
about a destructive fire that fells trees, horses, but when the sirens
scream in your own town and you look to the foothills and see smoke
rising toward the sky, and then a red glare shows behind the trees,
your heart sinks.
" A wind whips the blaze and the smoke and
the fire spirals higher and races up a hill to take a toll of trees,
underbrush and many
houses. It is an awesome heartbreaking complete destruction by fire."
"
Nothing can stop that," a woman moans, tightly clutching her husband's
arm, a member of a group of worried householders at the intersection
of Gibraltar Road and El Cielito, "It's not going to stop."
The licking red flames become a 10-mile wide front, burning in all
directions as the winds came from all points of the compass, causing
the brush to explode and the flames to race up the ridges. The high
steel transmission towers that have earlier inhibited the aerial
tankers are now silhouetted against the flames.
Standing on roadsides or beside cars and trucks loaded with the few
precious things they have chosen to take with them, Mountain Drive
residents watch the brilliant flames race across the foothills a
last time before fleeing.
Above Bill Richardson's house the fire roars toward the structure.
The rusty film of chemicals on Bill Richardson's green island is
to no avail. The flames roar across the cliff again. It is now well
after dark, and this time there are no bombers to save it.
Bill, Frankie, Joelli, 4, and Gavin, 2, are at a friend's house,
thanking their stars, when they hear that their house is threatened
once more. Bill and a friend leave quickly, ignoring firemen's warnings
that if they go up the hill they won't come down alive. They are
worried about the animals.
Driving through a sky that is filled with raining ash, he and his
close frined Noel Young reach the house minutes before the raging
flames pounce, leading Coco and the dogs to safety. Fortunately there
is just enough time to save all of Bill's novel, though not most
of his short stories.
At about 11:30 pm, Bill Richardson's house burns to the ground.
He had his family, his animals, and a lot of his writing.
"
That's something," he thinks, "anyway."
At 6 am the next morning, the nearly one thousand grimy, tired firefighters
who watch the sun rise over the fire, know that their nightlong efforts
have not been enough. Some of the men lumber into the fire trucks
which will take them up treacherous, narrow, winding roads to situate
them above the fire. Others climb into helicopters which are taking
off from the athletic field at Westmont College, where the base camp
is located, readying themselves to be dropped into the midst of red-hot
spots of fire. At the Municipal Airport the engines of the B-17s
and other bombers rev.
Westmont College has become a small town,
springing to existence only yesterday. Today it is a bustling, crowded
city, bursting with
a population of more than 800. It is known simply as "Fire Camp." The
day is split neatly: for 12 hours they are on the fire lines; the
other 12 they are in camp, eating, sleeping, and waiting.
At camp their eyes rarely leave the hills for long, watching for
the spurt of flame, or the billowing cloud of smoke that signals
to them that the fire has broken out again.
This will be a crucial day on the fire line.
The Coyote Fire has now consumed 1,800 acres and an estimated 15-20
homes. At 10 am the santana winds begin again, blowing from 40-to-45
miles per hour, causing the return of extreme fire weather. The steep
brush-covered hillsides east of Gibraltar Road become a holocaust,
the roaring winds scattering firebrands. The helicopters drop scores
of men into these. The fire trucks hurry to the mountaintops. The
bombers concentrate on Cold Springs Canyon where the fire has surged,
threatening to cross over into the Santa Ynez watershed. Acreage
is being eaten up rapidly.
The big, slow moving planes drift through the smoke and flame at
stall speed--this in the face of the unpredictable gusts of wind--only
to dive quickly down into the canyon at precisely the right time,
release its 2,000 pound load of fire retardant across the slopes
in front of the advancing flames, then rise up and bank sharply,
just missing the ridgeline in front of them.
Long strips of the red fire retardant cover the hillsides, the color
nearly matching that of the fire, making it difficult through the
smoke to see what is flame and what is retardant.
Until dusk the lumbering bombers shuttle in and out of the airport,
the traffic so thick at times that the planes stack up on the loading
ramp, impatiently awaiting their bellyful of retardant.
Haradon makes 18 runs on Wednesday. Wheeling around in the billowing
smoke, his 25-year-old converted warship is shepherded to its target
by a Forest Service T-34 piloted by Mike Beebe, 44, of Ontario. Over
the radio the voices squawk, shouting out which ridge they want doused
next. Haradon threads his way into the smoke, hugging the tail of
the T-34, then laying the cloud of red mist right on target.
"
It's not exactly like driving a car," Beebe tells a reporter during
a break, "but lots of jobs are a matter of calculated risk."--an
understatement in the midst of the roaring activity that is enough
to scare the pants off those who are watching from the ground.
By the end of the day on Wednesday nearly 500 trips have been made
and more than a half-million gallons of retardant unloaded on every
hot spot in the sprawling blaze.
But when the smoke clears briefly; the view is not encouraging. The
flames have broken through the chemical barrier and they continue
relentlessly upward. If the fire in Cold Springs Canyon is to be
contained, it will have to be done at the mountaintop.
Forest Service personnel await the fire there, with other crews fighting
it on either side, trying to squeeze it into a narrow enough tongue
of flame that it can be stopped by those who are on the crest.
This doesn't work. In minutes the flames cross the top of the Santa
Ynez Mountains and burn down the north slopes to Forbush Flat.
What the Santa Barbara News-Press has called "the big one they all
feared" is becoming the firefighter's worst nightmare. By now, 13,000
acres have been consumed.
At 6:30 pm santana conditions, which have been estimated at only
about 10 per cent, return, causing the fire to shift directions and
race from the crest down into San Ysidro Canyon, where it turns east
and into Montecito. The fire flares so quickly that temperatures
along Mountain Drive near San Ysidro Canyon jump up 20 degrees. The
searing flames shoot through the treetops threatening Westmont College
and San Ysidro Ranch, and causing the entire area between Cold Springs
Road and Romero Canyon to be evacuated. Steadily this front expands
eastward towards Romero and Toro Canyons.
At Westmont College, Howard Stitl, a Professor of Education on campus,
and his wife, keep the men supplied with hot coffee and cold lemonade
while the fire rages just yards from them. Inbetween setting out
refreshments for the men she sprayed water over their on-campus home
with the garden hose.
"
The exploding sound of eucalyptus trees was as loud as the bang of
a closet door in a heavy wind," Mrs. Stitl tells afterwards. "Flying
embers shot over Westmont's athletic field wierdly reminiscent of
the sky rockets that zoom over West Beach on the Fourth of July."
"
It's like Dante's Inferno," a fleeing woman remarks.
Out of the thick smoke, the road littered
with glowing embers, a horse appears, followed by a car. "The fire was quiet when we decided
to go back into the evacuated area to see if we could save our horse," Mrs.
George McWilliams remembers. "But by the time we reached the corral,
everything was on fire--the trees, the houses on the block, and even
the corral with the horse in it.
" We managed to get the horse out, and my cousin
led him in front of the car while I drove. We decided to try to get
to Hot Springs Road.
" It was so hot. The wind was blowing so hard
I had to close the windows to keep out the burning cinders. And then
we had our most terrifying
experience.
" We had just passed a burning tree when it
crashed into the street behind us. We would have been trapped if
it had fallen before we
got there.
" It was so alone. There was no one else--no
fire trucks, no nothing."
At the corner of Hot Springs and East Valley
Roads another woman weeps openly. "I'm crying for the beauty that is destroyed," she
tells concerned onlookers, "for there is no district in the United
States as beautiful as Montecito."
On the fire's west flank the wind blows huge embers across Rattlesnake
Canyon, and at 8:45 pm a spot fire is reported in this canyon. Six
houses are lost in Rattlesnake Canyon within an hour. Mt. Calvary
Monastery is completely surrounded by flames and is reported to be
a total loss, but miraculously, it escapes with only minor damage.
Mission Canyon burns next, the fire surging past the Botanic Gardens,
through houses at the upper end of Tunnel Road, and down into Lauro
Canyon, roaring and leaping down the canyon, over one hill, down
another, innumerable heads of flame unchecked by man, each attacking,
one a stone's throw from Wood Glen Hall, a senior citizens' home,
another heading beneath the San Roque Bridge and into Stevens Park,
filling the air with the smell of eucalyptus oil.
Throughout the night the pyrotechnics continue, the main body of
fire proceeding west along the high foothills, sending flame down
each of the branch canyons, first threatening Northridge Estates,
then blackening Barger Canyon; finally pouring over into San Antonio
Canyon.
A police car chases the wild flames through
the blackness of the night, keeping others posted about the fire's
advance. "We chased
her from one end of town to the other," one of the policemen says
in exasperation. "Yeh," says the other, "but we couldn't get her
chased out."
The entire front country is on fire; the Coyote
Fire has now burned 23,000 acres and this night has become the single
most destructive
one in Santa Barbara's history. "The speeding fire, which overnight
swept through the coastal front behind Santa Barbara, is the worst
disaster since the 1925 earthquake," the News-Press exclaims.
"
What can we do?" The question is repeated over the phones and at
the desks of emergency centers thousands of times. The response is
overwhelming; heartwarming offers of help pour in. If there is nothing
that can be done to stem the raging, ravaging fire, Santa Barbarans
everywhere find ways to be of assistance.
Sadly, arsonists add to the many blazes which erupt.
Near Las Canoas Road, while watering down their properties, several
residents have observed a man crawling along a fence and in the bushes,
lighting matches. Converging on the man, they pin him to the ground
while one of them runs home to get a pistol. He is held at gunpoint
while another flags down a police car in which, coincidentally, the
mayor, Don MacGillivray, is riding.
The man is arrested and booked on suspicion of intoxication and held
for investigation.
At 3 am on Thursday morning Sheriffs drive through Painted Cave,
warning residents to evacuate. Near San Marcos Pass, Emmett Kinevan,
the old man of the mountain, whose ancient stage stop is part of
Santa Barbara's historic pioneer spirit, is wakened at 3:30 am by
firemen who tell him that he has ten minutes to leave.
"
Nonsense!" he replies, then turns over in bed. He has been through
too many of these to be worried. Most residents of the Pass, do however,
leave, and by daylight few people are left on the mountain.
By 8 am the view from the mountaintop retreat is grim. The fire has
crossed into Maria Ygnacio Canyon and, fed by strong, hot winds,
is sweeping relentlessly towards those who have remained. The Forest
Service has committed every man and pumper available to halting the
fire at Highway 154. It appears that the Painted Cave community will
be sacrificed.
"
We planned to run a backfire all the way up the road to the pass," Forest
Supervisor Bill Hansen explains later. "and that would have included
burning Painted Cave. It appeared that it was an utter impossibility
to save the homes.
" It was no easy decision I made to run the
backfire, because once we started the line across the road there
was little chance to stop
the backfire until we reached the pass."
Hansen's top fire bosses agree with his decision. To hold the line
at Highway 154, it is imperative that they backfire all the way to
the top of the Pass, including the area where the homes of those
in Painted Cave are located. The key factor in making this determination
is the latest weather report which predicts that the east winds will
remain undiminished throughout the afternoon.
"
The weather report was wrong," Hansen laments afterwards, "and that
is the only thing that saved Painted Cave. When the flames approached
the area, they had built up a real head of steam. It appeared impossible
to save the community."
"
It was a poor place for men to be and risk their lives," Hansen adds. "I
wouldn't have considered sending anyone in there under the circumstances
because all those homes are sitting right in the brush, and our weather
people said there was no chance of a wind change."
In Painted Cave Monroe Russ has remained, facing what may be his
executioner at 1 pm with a peaceful serenity. A golden meadow nearby
ripples in the breeze, the same wind which has hurled a thousand
tongues of flame towards him and threatens his home. Some of those
tongues flare 300 feet into the air. Russ appears to be staring straight
into the face of hell.
"
It ain't going to come," he says determinedly, though the fire winds
ruffling the grey hair on his head indicate otherwise. Everyone else
has gone by this time; only Russ and three other men remain, save
one family which is hurriedly throwing things in a pickup truck.
Then they leave and he is left completely alone with his home beside
him, facing the fire only with his own thoughts as solace, standing
in the shadow of a giant monster cloud of filthy, oily black smoke,
the sun shining through, blood red. The community is quiet save the
roar of the flames, the sound like that of a jet cutting through
the thick air, and the droning sound of the bombers.
"
I'll be here until the flames come," he vows, sure that the B-17s
will snuff them out before they reach his house. But they couldn't
and didn't.
Forest service crews busily begin torching the brush and grass along
the east side of Highway 154, working their way up Painted Cave Road
and burning this area on both sides. As they approach the houses
in the community they find it difficult to ignite the brush there,
knowing the houses are sure to be destroyed. In an effort to delay
the destruction of the community as long as possible, they hesitate
for a few minutes, hoping against hope that the wind will shift.
By some miracle it does. Just as the wall of flame approaches Painted
Cave, there is a lull in the wind, and in a few minutes it switches
to the north, saving most of the houses there, though not that of
Monroe Russ. Soon after this he is forced to flee, his house behind
him being consumed in flames.
Quickly the other men run about to various
houses putting out small fires with hoses. "I think we saved two or three houses," one of
them remembers, "then we had to leave."
At about 4 pm the flames have laid down enough so that Pass residents
are able return to see what is left of their homes and precious possessions.
One lone man approaches a reporter with two doorknobs in his hands,
his eyes teary.
"
Lady," he says, his voice hollow, "you won't believe it, but this
is my front door-knob, and this is my back. There was a home inbetween!" Though
40 homes in Painted Cave have been saved by the fortuitous shift
in the wind's direction, 8 houses have been completely destroyed
there, 19 total along the Pass.
There is a strong feeling of kinship, high
up on the mountain wall, surrounded by blackened hillsides and smoldering
brush. Those who
return express themselves in terms of "we." It isn't so much the
homes that have been lost. "High on a mountain-top," Lucille Lewis
observes, "they looked out on a personal, private beauty, a personal
vista of nature they could find nowhere else. Last night they saw
a different sight. Ashes and burning tree stumps and fireplace chimneys
marking the spot where 19 homes once stood."
"
The next time, we won't leave, no matter what," Pass residents mutter.
They have learned a hard lesson--those who stay to protect save,
but those who leave often have nothing to come back to. "This is
what I think bothered them the most," Audrey Ovington notes in a
News-Press article. "They weren't allowed to fight. They were ordered
to evacuate and later, in town, had to read the paper to find out
what happened to their homes. If they could have stayed and fought,
it would have been easier for them. For this is what they wanted
to do."
"
If we had gotten only one Forest Service tanker, we could have saved
the eight homes," Painted Cave resident Lloyd Kaun said in exasperation. "Somebody
just decided to write us off."
From the roof a neighbor's home, Harry Cook,
Kaun and several friends stood and watched the flames roll towards
them. "We were waiting
for the fire equipment to arrive. But not a single person came up.
At 10 am we called the County Fire Department, which we have been
instructed to do, and the dispatcher said, "It's not our responsibility;
call the Forest Service.'
" When we called the Forest Service, they said
they had nothing available.
"
I'll tell you one thing," Kaun adds, his voice bitter, "we've all
decided to band together and protect our homes in the future, because
we can't expect the Forest Service to care. We've decided not to
evacuate the next time there is a fire."
If the shift in wind has served the good fortune of the Painted Cave
community, it now rages towards the crest of the Santa Ynez Mountains
and towards the Santa Ynez Valley.
From the Los Prietos Ranger Station, News-Press
writer Ken Lewis watches. "The flames have just topped the mountain overlooking the
area," he reports, "and within seconds the entire ridge top is a
mass of leaping flames a mile long."
Fire crews on the crest desperately set backfires. The dense smoke
smothers them as they disappear into the fireline. They come dashing
out, racked with fits of coughing, the smoke causing them to weep,
catch their breath, then head back into it once more.
"
This is the last ditch, man," gasps one of them. There are now 2,000
firefighters on the line.
"
El Camino Cielo can be translated to mean the heavenly road, but
the mountaintop fire line was sheer hell," Barney Brantingham reports
from the midst of the scene that Ken Lewis views from the valley. "Hellishly
hot and dangerous, it was practically worth your life just to get
up there. Surging westward was a black chariot of smoke pulled by
teams of plunging red stallions, snorting fire."
At 2:30 pm pillars of smoke rise straight up on both sides of the
road, which is itself grimy with ash and gloomy from the dense pall
of smoke. A Forest Service pumper truck burns eerily in the gloom,
a pile of dirt near a rear wheel testimony to the desperate attempt
to get the truck unstuck.
Nearby, a firefighter has barely survived
the firestorm. "We crouched
behind the cats when the flames roared over," he tells a reporter. "Several
men ran into a backfired area to save themselves. My truck caught
fire, but I got it out."
Out of this hell Frank Ragland of the Salvation Army appears with
fellow volunteer John LeCouix. His mission is to hand out coffee
and doughnuts to those who are on the fire line. Their small bus
rolls along the road, looking for fire crews to feed. The black smoke
turns the sun an angry red; a sick yellow light is shed on them as
the flame roars nearby. A load of fire suppressant spews across the
road in front of them, halting the progress of the flames momentarily.
Nimbly, the bus skirts around the edge of the fire, drives through
the hissing red foam, and finds a dozer crew several hundred yards
later, handing them a load of precious carbohydrates and the java
needed to keep the weary men alert.
"
This is an easy fire to fight," a crewmen notes whose job is backfiring. "Follow
the cats cutting the firebreaks along the ridge and backfire." Moments
later, however, he is forced to eat his words when the weather shifts
away from Painted Cave and the north wind brings the fire surging
towards him. "This is last ditch man," he shouts, only his perfect
backfiring saving him from certain death.
The Coyote Fire, three days old and 35,000 acres in size, has now
invaded the Santa Ynez drainage in force.
At 12:03 pm the clock in the Los Prietos Ranger Station stops. Electrical
power now reaches the valley only in spurts. Kerosene lamps flicker
in the ranger offices, and under the soft light a plan is readied
if the fire should head their way.
Frank Olivera is a tractor driver, his job to widen Arroyo Burro
Road, a dirt path leading from the crest down the north side of the
Santa Ynez Mountains to Rancho Oso, before the fire has a chance
of crossing it. He feels the shift in wind direction, but working
alone, doesn't know exactly where the fire is heading.
Suddenly, he hears the sound, the roar, and
as he looks up the flames crest over the mountains and begin racing
down either side of the
line he is working. "I figured if it was already on both sides, there
was no sense going any further," he says later. Instead, he turns
off the road and cuts across a ridge to Rancho Oso. Later he is told
that the fire swept right through the part of the road where he had
been working and that if he had stayed he surely would have been
caught up in it.
For the next hour Paradise Road becomes a scene of frenzied activity.
Rancho Oso, the Los Prietos Boys Camp, 150 vacation homes, and even
the ranger station are in immediate danger of being lost.
The activity is as fierce as the fire, impressions jumbled together
like a nightmare.
" Eyes stinging, lungs aching for just one
breath of clean air.
" Giant trees exploding; everyone jumping,
just a little, when they went off.
" Black of night and black of smoke and white
of clouds and white of ashes.
" Red of flames, yellow-red close up and black-red
against the darkened distant sky.
" Getting out of the station.
" Twice out when the flames came yards away;
twice back when they receded.
" And people.
" People with odd names and odd jobs who stopped
sleeping and eating and living for anything else.
" With one solid reason for going on.
" To put out the fire."
When the fire appears on the mountain crest, Stubby Mansfield is
informed by radio that he is now the zone boss for the Paradise area,
though he has little equipment and few men.
A natural updraft near the mountaintop is expected to keep the fire
line near the crest until the men stationed along San Marcos Pass
can be transferred down into the valley but a half-hour after he
has been given command the flames rush down towards his poorly-manned
outpost.
"
It's come down 10 times faster than it should have," he shouts over
the radio, letting the command center at Westmont College know he
needs more men right now. The he hurries out to Gaucho Lane, where
he has stationed the two meager trucks that make up his forces.
"
Grab the fuses," he yells at them, and they race along the road starting
a line of backfire a quarter mile long in a desperate attempt to
save the residences in this area. In seconds, the two walls of fire
collide, rise up, then die away as their source of energy--the brush--is
no longer available to them.
But there hasn't been time enough to backfire much of a line. To
the left the flames burst through to the road's edge, threatening
the ranger station. Running as fast as they can, the men scurry over
a small hill, setting fires behind them, heading to the station,
where all personnel are being evacuated. There, they set fire to
the grass at the road side, hoping it will burn out the area enough
to keep the fire from crossing Paradise Road.
The fire catches slowly, then, as the heat builds, begins to burn
more rapidly towards the wildfire. The flames meet in the crown of
a large oak, the tree crackling, the sound like that of a dry Christmas
tree on fire, then subside. The Ranger Station has been saved.
During the remainder of the afternoon a continuous backfire is set
along Paradise Road down the valley, and for the time the threat
in this area has been stemmed.
All is not this well on the fire line, however.
Jerry Berry, the fire control officer for
the Santa Barbara Ranger District, is typical of the men who have
been on the lines. His face
is blackened and his eyes reddened. Someone asks him when he has
slept last. "I think I had three hours last night," he mumbles, "Or
maybe it was the night before last," he adds. It will be a while
before he gets much more.
At 1 pm on Thursday, Line Boss Jerry Berry puts out a call on the
radio network. There is an urgency in his voice. An unknown number
of men have been trapped by a flareup on the north side--as many
as 30 men may be involved.
Two separate crews are in grave danger.
One has been assigned the job of building a line down from the west
edge of the slopover between La Cumbre Peak and Romero Canyon; the
other crew is working the east flank.
At about noon the windshift which saves the Painted Cave area, turns
the flames back on both of these crews, causing the slopover to become
extremely active in all directions.
On the west edge during the morning the crew attempts to fire out
the brush to the east after establishing a hand cut line, but each
time, the flames force them to retreat. Eventually they move one
ridge to the west, clear an existing pre-attack line, and begin to
fire it out. They have proceeded several hundred yards down this
ridge when the wind shift occurs, and the main fire makes a run at
them. The backfire has not burned sufficiently at this point to protect
them and suddenly, they find themselves trapped.
Near Romero Saddle the second crew works feverishly to keep a fire
burning in Romero Canyon from crossing Camino Cielo and burning into
the Santa Ynez drainage. As the flames near the 25 man crew it is
apparent that the first flames will reach the crest near Toro Saddle,
above Toro Canyon. The crew is split. One group heads to a high point
above Toro Saddle, and commences backfiring operations there. The
remainder, from Klamath National Forest, stay at Romero Saddle to
continue firing out this area. The Klamath crew has only just arrived
at the fire at 12:30 am, early that morning, and are now in the midst
of their first operation.
All available helicopters are rigged for rescue and sent to Camino
Cielo. Because it is not certain the helicopters can land, a 4x4
search and rescue ambulance is dispatched up Gibraltar Road, and
a standard one from across Camino Cielo from Highway 154.
A concentrated air attack is also ordered on the flareup.
When rescue personnel arrive on the scene at Camino Cielo, some
of the trapped crew have made their way to the crest with the assistance
of a team of smokejumpers. While the air attack works continuously
to hold down the flames, Berry and several of the smokejumpers
scramble down a draw in the unburned brush, 250 to 300 yards west
of the area where the main crew had been burned. They find one
man with a broken leg 200 yards below the summit, and with the
aid of a dozer, build a line into the injured man and get him out
safely.
Immediately afterwards the fire overtakes this area and burns
it out completely.
At Romero Saddle the flames pour in from three sides, trapping four
of the firemen from Yreka as they hack out a fire line nearby. Before
they can run, it is on them, the flames drifting across the dirt
road which is their only hope of escape.
Three of the men fling themselves in the dirt
below the road. But the fourth, John Patterson, hesitates, then yells
at the others, "Come
on! We can make it this way," he shouts as he starts up the road.
"
Stop!" yells one of the others, Dave Alberts. But Patterson runs
on.
For a half hour the other three men grovel in the dirt, covering
themselves up with it the best they can. Patterson is 400 feet away,
dead.
"
He panicked," Alberts says later,
No, he was an experienced fire fighter," says Blain Alpheus, one
of the others there, adding a chilling thought. "He might have gotten
out. And we might have had it. He could've been right.
" If he had been maybe 200 feet further, he
might've been able to run through the flames and get out."
Alpheus continues, "He yelled at me, 'come
on, we can make it this way.'
" That's when I hit the dirt in that bank.
I looked up and saw him run. All around him there was nothing but
flame. Then he was gone.
We must've missed death by about a second. There was one mass of
terribly hot fire moving towards us. It was so hot you couldn't see
or breathe. Then the wind shifted, and a little air came in.
" When it passed, my hard hat was so hot it
blistered my fingers when I picked it up.
The wind shift that saves the three men apparently doesn't help Patterson,
who stumbles, loses his hat, then runs 30 more yards before falling
once more, the flames burning all his clothes off.
Caprice--a word often used to explain how some houses are burned,
while others are saved, apparently claims Patterson's life while
sparing those of the others.
"
We were lying there," Alpheus adds, "and I looked over at MacDonald
here, and I could tell, he thought he was never going to see old
Yreka again."
Would they fight fires again?
The two men looked at each other. "It don't bother me," Alpheus shruggs, "As
long as a man comes out alive."
The News-Press commentary the following day is sobering.
" Though South Coast residents were spared
another night of terror Thursday night, there was no joy in the pall
of ashes covering their
renowned mountain backdrop, or in the thousands of white-hot spots
waiting for a wind change, or in the peril still hanging over the
back country.
" The burn became a 'killer fire' with the
death Thursday afternoon of John L. Patterson, Sr. of Yreka, trapped
while making a valiant
stand against the inferno at the Romero Canyon Saddle high above
Summerland."
John Chase, who is the caretaker at Jameson
Reservoir, is almost caught by the shift in the fire's direction. "I
could hear the flames roaring down the mountain toward my cabin about
11:30 pm that night.
I jumped into my pickup truck and headed up a narrow road to the
lake behind the dam. I just got out in the nick of time."
His plan was to take his boat out on the lake,
where Chase thinks he will be completely safe. "I ran into the fire
along the road up to the lake but the flames were closing in behind
me and I couldn't
back out, so I took a chance and made a run for it. It was pretty
hot on one side of the truck, but I made it."
When he gets to the lake he finds, to his discomfort, that the boat
is on the other side, and unreachable. Instead he uses buckets of
water, wet sacks, and a shovel to make a crude firebreak around the
truck and through the grass to the lake's edge.
He keeps his vigil on the bank of the reservoir through the night,
wetting the sacks, and scrapping away at the soil. Deer, fox, coyote,
raccoons, big rats, and snakes join him at various times. At dawn,
when he leaves, safe from the fire's clutching jaws, he is thankful
to be alive.
By Friday afternoon the Coyote Fire has become a back country fire.
At 9:30 am the next morning it crosses below Jameson Reservoir and
moves within two miles of Hildreth Peak. Then, as the wind shifts,
it swings back again to the reservoir, encircles it, and moves east
to Divide Peak and west towards Camuesa Peak.
Backfires eliminate the threat on the western front, and on the eastern
slopes the biggest aerial attack ever brought to bear on a California
fire keeps this side in check.
Nevertheless, more than 80,000 acres have been burned by 2 pm, including
one-sixth of the entire Santa Ynez drainage, this alone accounting
for more than 45,000 acres of the total.
Finally, however, the firefighters gain a needed ally--a shift in
weather--and the day proves to be the turning point in the war on
this fire.
"
In the vast breast of the Pacific breathed forth a blessed shroud
of fog and cloud," Bill Botwright reports in poetic fashion. "Deep
and dense with soothing moisture it moved over the bones of ravaged
homes, mounted the stark and blackened slopes and debouched upon
the inner valleys.
" The cruel beast called Coyote slackened in
its ravenous pace, tired, and--in the coastal areas--lay down to
slumber in the brutal ruin
it had wrought."
Stubby Mansfield has become the boss on the Potrero Seco fire zone,
the remaining area which is out of control. The fire has burned Agua
Caliente and Diablo Canyons, crossing east of Hildreth Peak, advancing
behind a 12 mile per hour breeze, the fire a mile-and-a-half wide
corridor that should reach Potrero Seco the next morning at its current
pace. Under Mansfield's supervision a heavy buildup of men and equipment
has been underway for the past day-and-a-half.
"
Actually," Mansfield says on Friday night, "I feel we're in pretty
good shape. We've had a few flare-ups, and the line is not tied in,
but we hope to control it sometime tomorrow."
"
They didn't bring tanks, but yellow Caterpillar tractors; smoke goggles
replaced gas masks; and shovels were issued instead of guns," Ken
Lewis reports from the Potrero Seco line on Saturday morning.
" It was the build-up of another assault on
a mortal enemy--the Coyote Fire."
When Stubby Mansfield returns from an early morning aerial reconnaissance
there is a grin on his face. It is his happiest moment in the past
four days. For the first time he has the feeling that the fire can
be licked.
On October 1, the day on which containment is finally declared, it
is sunny and clear. The giant tip of Hildreth Peak dominates the
skyline, overlooking a charred landscape that is devoid of life.
An orange-helmeted Forest Service employee stands on the tip top,
surrounded by a ring of packs, awaiting an airlift, the last man
remaining on the fire line.
In Santa Barbara, the destruction of the mountain wall is vividly
black, from Toro Canyon to Highway 154 the memories vividly brutal.
The Coyote Fire has not died easily. Rather, it has been hacked and
bombed, and backfired to death, a death assured more by weather patterns
than an act of man. It has destroyed much, though not the spirit
of those who have lost their homes.
"
It's odd how you can keep going, smoky day after smoky day," Audrey
Ovington explained in describing the spunk of the mountain people. "You
get your strength from the 'fire wind' that advances in front of
the enemy. The scorched earth makes you fight to save the rest that
is still green.
" As the people were coming back to see what
was left, I saw many strange sights:
A mother with a baby in her arms, standing on a burned-out platform
that used to be their home, silhouetted against the sky, children
staring into a letterbox with no house behind it.
" I met car after car of people coming back
to see what was left. They were of such raw courage, and good spirit,
that it was impossible
to tell who had lost a cabin and who hadn't.
" All I spoke to and who had lost, planned
to rebuild."
ONE WOMAN stands at the charred black window frame
of her much loved home, three gaping holes where there have once
been windows. A smile comes over her face.
She looks at her husband and says, "I've always
wanted to have a picture window. Now we have!
"
IT IS TIME men stopped fighting nature--and worked with it," the
News-Press states on October 5.
October 26, the County Board of Supervisors sets up a seven person
committee to make a recommendation regarding the use of controlled
burn practices.
In a letter on December 16, the Santa Barbara
Range Improvement Association offers "to devote their services as
well as their equipment in the same manner as is presently done for
controlled burns on neighboring
ranches, and will treat the Forest Service the same as any rancher,
and the same fee be paid by the Forest Service as any of the rancher
members are now paying."
The Regional Forester, whose office is in
San Francisco, rejects the offer. "It is all right to light a fire in the kitchen stove," he
says, "but not in the middle of the living room." National Forest
Service policy is still firmly opposed to the use of fire to reduce
chaparral fuel loading.
This sentiment is echoed by Forest Supervisor
Bill Hansen. Controlled or wild, the end result will be the same.
Fire destroys vegetation
and that's not good."
"
If the fire burns hot enough to do the job," Hansen warns those who
are in favor of a let burn policy, "it requires extraordinary measures
to keep it under control. And then the soil exposed to winter rains
must be revegetated to prevent excessive erosion. Without these precautions,
or if the burn takes place in a critical watershed, the results from
a control burn are the same as from wildfire."
Not so retorts UCSB Biology Professor R.B.
Cowles. 'The longer an area remains unburned the greater becomes
its potential for fires
of uncontrollable fury," he writes in an article which appears in
the News-Press.. "It has remained over the years the dreary repetition
of unarguable demonstrations that by preventing fires we are also
accumulating fuel, increasing the danger to life and property and
virtually assuring the uncontrollability of some future outbreak.
" Erosion will proceed as usual despite all
we can do....The product of weathering can be dumped into the valley
all at once or in smaller
but more frequent doses--but erosion will go its own way.
"
It is our choice," Cowles reaffirms, "we can continue to insist on
preventing small fires and thus carefully, and even expensively,
nurture conditions that will insure an uncontrollable big one, with
an equally uncontrollable mud-and flood aftermath."
Neither the arguments, nor the positions have changed. Despite a
growing sentiment for the introduction of fire into the chaparral
landscape, a land from which we have attempted to withhold it for
more than 60 years, changing policy is not an easy matter.
Nor is it easy to see how such a policy change can be implemented
in a land of such rugged topography, remoteness, and heavy fuel loading.
"
This time," the News-Press wonders, " will the lessons of the fire
sinks in?" |